Tasting Notes: September 2022 Coffees

 Tasting Notes: September 2022 Coffees

Fuglen Roststatte DAK And Cartwheel Tasting Notes

Following on from The Barn's recent feature and the standard you know you can expect from GUSTATORY, Fuglen are another regarded as one of the world's very, very best. We're super proud to be able to offer you Fuglen.

With six retro-design espresso bars in Oslo and Tokyo, Fuglen roast and source only the freshest coffee they can find, offering small lots as directly as possible from who they believe are the best coffee growers around the world. Roasting lightly in a Nordic style to enhance all the good, natural flavours of coffee without adding any roasty tones, Fuglen showcases the vast difference of flavours and terroir uniqueness that the world of coffee has to offer.

Fuglen Coffees  |  Norway & Japan

Coffee Story Notes & Essentials Packages
Kaganda, Kenya Kaganda coffee factory is located in a valley in the county of Muranga. The factory is actually located in a prime tea growing region in Kenya and has been operating since 1970. It is now affiliated with Kaganda Farmers Cooperative which to date has 1050 members. The factory serves as the processing station for the surrounding coffee producing villages.

After harvesting the coffee, the cherry is delivered to the factory and undergoes the wet processing method. Water is pumped to the reservoir tanks for pulping and recycling. After pulping the cherries they are stored overnight, washed, soaked and spread on the drying tables. The parchment is then frequently turned on the drying tables, and stored awaiting delivery to the dry mill.
Passion fruit, rhubarb and blood orange

Altitude: 1800 masl, Process: washed
Plus 87, Rest of World
Granitos, Costa Rica Located in Santa María de Dota, a small mountain town along the flank of the Cordillera de Talamanca range of Costa Rica is the farm “Joyce” owned by Omar Calderon. He grows Typica as well as Geisha and other varieties.

Omar, his wife and four daughters have been producing coffee and managing the micro processing mills for the last twenty years. Omar oversees the whole operation but the day to day running of the processing mills is done by his daughters.

This coffee was processed using the Yellow Honey method. This process involves removing 50-75% of the mucilage on the coffee. Processing in this way allows the coffee to have the clarity and elegant aspects of a washed coffee whilst having the body and sweetness of a natural coffee.
Grape, green tea and honey

Altitude: 1900 masl, Process: yellow honey
Plus 87, Rest of World
Samii Bensa, Ethiopia Bensa is a washing station located within the Sidamo region of Ethiopia. This region is renowned for its coffees which often are complex with crisp acidity, rich body and floral notes. The area has around 800 farmers who deliver their coffee cherries to the washing station to be processed.

Faisel Abdosh is the owner of seven washing stations as well as the owner of Tesi coffee exporters. He was joined by his cousin Adam in 2014. Adam used to live in Texas and he moved to Ethiopia to be involved in the family’s growing business. Faisel was exposed to the coffee industry at a young age, he has close relatives who are involved in coffee farming.

Cherries are collected by hand. The cherries are then pulped whereby skin and fruit pulp are removed. The beans then undergo wet fermentation for 72 hours before being washed and graded in water by density. The lower density (lower quality) will float and are removed, leaving only the denser and therefore higher quality beans which are separated as higher grade lots.

Coffee is then piled up in layers which are 2cm in height and dried over a 10 day period followed by hand sorting for 2-4 hours.
Nectarine, white chocolate and rose

Altitude: 1950 - 2000 masl, Process: washed
Selected Mix, Single / Light
La Higuera, Peru This coffee is sourced by the Colasay Project and comes from farmers in small caserios (villages) in the Colasay District, in the Jaen province of north Peru. This coffee is part of a sourcing program through an organisation called Origin Coffee Lab.

The coffees are either micro-lots or communal producer blends from the areas in the north around Jaen and San Ignacio. Farms are normally between 1-3 hectares and are family-run. They harvest, pulp, ferment and dry the coffees at the farms. If the producers are part of a premium program, they will more likely invest in their production to create potential micro-lots.

A typical farmer within this program will have just above 2 hectares on average, planted with coffee. They are organic certified. The equipment can be extremely simple, but coffees can still be amazing. Some have their own parabolic dryers, others dry on plastic outside their farms, or use a drying facility at their neighbour's or relative's place.
Pear, caramel and toasted oats

Altitude: 1800 - 2200 masl, Process: washed
Plus 87
Balesi Dingu, Ethiopia Balesi Dingu is a pioneering coffee producer who encourages other farmers to follow his footsteps in producing high quality coffee. He advises fellow farmers on how to harvest coffee, and how to dry coffee for the specialty market.

Often farmers are not able to reach the importers or roasters on their own so many continue to sell their coffee to washing stations where they earn a fixed price and lose their identity by being blended into larger lots. Balesi wants to increase the knowledge about processing among farmers so they can grow better coffee and in turn receive a better price.

This is a natural processed coffee that is hand sorted at the farm. After picking and sorting the coffee is dried on raised beds for 15 days during which time it is rotated. The coffee is covered at night to prevent mold.
Cherry, black tea and blueberry

Altitude: 2050 masl, Process: natural
Plus 87, Rest of World
Janet Trujillo, Colombia Janet became a coffee producer after his father gave him money to buy land and encouraged him to plant coffee trees. His father passed on knowledge which became crucial for Janet to thrive as a producer.

Janet started the farm on March 15th 2008 and currently has around 2500 coffee trees producing the variety “Colombia''. The farm is named “El Porvenir '' which means “The Future '' - quite apt as the whole family is involved in the production - Janets wife Romelia, 4 sons and two daughters.

The main harvest usually starts around May or June and Mitaca is the second harvest and normally starts in October. During the harvest the coffee is hand picked and left to ferment “in cherry” in buckets for 28 hours. It is then depulped and left for an additional 27 hours before being washed twice more to remove any mucilage residue. After this it is transported and dried in a mechanical dryer which gets rotated every 2 hours. When the initial desired moisture content is reached the coffee is transported to the drying beds where it finishes drying for around 15-20 days.
Lemon, papaya and molasses

Altitude: 1750 masl, Process: washed
Selected Mix
Quetzales, Honduras The Los Quetzales farm is managed by Pedro Sagastume, his sons, and 10 permanent employees, with seasonal employment for picking and processing. Los Quetzales is one of four plantations that Sagastume owns, along with a wet mill and drying station located on his property.

The region of Santa Barbara is difficult to produce in, due to the rainforest-like conditions. The near-constant rain and sometimes low temperatures cause the cherries to stop ripening, and make it very challenging to dry properly. This difficulty in drying is what leads to problems and inconsistencies in the final product that is common in this region, but recently some very innovative, creative, driven producers have focused on precisely controlling the drying process. When managed properly, the coffees from this region have a unique flavor profile which isn’t found elsewhere in Central America.

In particular, one area has grabbed the attention of the Cup of Excellence panel, as the largest supplier of CoE winners in Honduras. After visiting the region, it was noted that the producers in the area are neighbors who share their knowledge and help each other to refine their product. This cooperation is what has elevated the region, and Honduras as a whole, in the specialty coffee industry.
lemongrass, apricot, chocolate and vanilla

Altitude: 1500 - 1650 masl, Process: washed
Selected Mix

A roasters who have featured with us several times before, we return once more to Berlin with Roststatte. Aligning themselves entirely with GUSTATORY's own principles, when purchasing their green coffees, Roststatte are known to pay fair purchase prices that are far above the world market level or Fairtrade certification offers - we love to hear when roasters match our mission, and we're here for this very reason, to make coffee more and more ethical and sustainable.

With three popular cafe locations amongst Berlin's famous speciality coffee scene, you're in for another treat..

Roststatte Coffees  |  Germany

Coffee Story Notes & Essentials Packages
Alaka, Ethiopia The story of this coffee begins in 1934 when a woman named Muluemebet Emiru becomes Africa's first female pilot (see story for more). The coffee of her grandson's export company comes from the Alaka village (Ethiopian: Kebele) in southern Ethiopia. It is grown at an altitude of between 1900 and 2250 meters by small farmers who then bring their crops to the Hambela Alaka Washing Station in Guji for further processing. It is a naturally prepared coffee that is dried in the sun on African beds for several weeks.

Our first release of the Hambela Alaka farm is here and we are very excited for this exciting lot from Ethiopia. The farm consists of several small farmers who grow their coffee organically. This special lot consists exclusively of the aforementioned heirloom variety and impresses with its complexity. Depending on the drinking temperature, you can expect a kaleidoscope of complex aromas and an intensely structured cup - just typical Ethiopian. The taste reminds us of peach, orange and wildberry.
Peach, orange and wild berry

Altitude: 1900 - 2250 masl, Process: natural
Plus 87, Rest of World, Single / Light
El Palto, Peru Coming soon Lemonade, cocoa, kumquat

Process: washed
Selected Mix, Single / Light, Plus 87
El Zacatin, Colombia The family-owned coffee farm is located in the highlands of Colombia, on the western slopes of the Cordillera Mountains in the Antioquia region. Coffee farmer Eduardo Fernandez-Restrepo works closely with various agronomists and the Institute for Coffee Research in Colombia to procure exceptional varieties for his farm and to produce his coffees using the latest processing methods.

With this processing method, the coffee is fermented under conditions that are as controlled as possible without actively exposing the coffee to oxygen for a certain period of time, usually at least 12-24 hours. To do this, the coffee cherries are placed in tanks or containers with an exhaust valve so that the CO2 produced by the fermentation can escape without oxygen being supplied. This causes less yeast and more lactic acid bacteria to determine the fermentation. Typical for the taste are sweetish-tart and less alcoholic notes like a classic fermented coffee.
Nougat, blueberry and plum

Altitude: 2200 masl, Process: natural
Plus 87, Rest of World
Novum, Ethiopia / Kenya / Peru A fruity and complex espresso with a balanced and aromatic-fruity acidity. The taste is dominated by intense aromas of black currant and the sweetness of dark chocolate. With the novelty you get an espresso blend with a particularly pleasant balance of sweetness and berry fruitiness.

This 100% Arabica espresso has been a fixture in our range since our early days. We conclude annual contracts with a farm or cooperative for the purchase of the three varieties in Novum. Three varieties from Peru, Kenya and Ethiopia are roasted and together they form a finely structured taste experience in the espresso.

Peru - We have signed a new contract with the Cedros Cafe Cooperative in Peru, a coffee found in some of our blends. The cooperative specializes in sustainable agriculture and the promotion of specialty coffee for its members. It is also committed to gaining access to public and private funding, participating in social projects and serving niche markets. In the meantime, Cedros Cafe has 280 members and 10 permanent employees, the management is occupied in the long term by female producers, among others, and new generations are promoted.

Ethiopia - The Ethiopian portion in Novum comes from the Sidamo region and is grown (often also called smallholder farmers) and exported as a so-called community lot. The coffee is named Acacia after the Ethiopian national tree and contains the three different local varieties, Kurume, Dega, Wolisho, which result in a tea-like, floral-fruity aroma in the cup.

Kenya - A fruity coffee that, with its sweetness, develops a beautiful bouquet of wild berries, sweet rock fruits and sparkling notes in a novelty. The Kenya AB Plus comes from a cooperative of many small farmers from the highlands of Kenya and is grown and washed at over 1500 meters.
Dark berries and dark chocolate

Altitude: various masl, Process: washed
Selected Mix, Blend / Darker
Chapada Da Minas, Brazil Fazenda Primavera has risen to become one of the most renowned coffee farms in Brazil, at least since winning the notorious Cup of Excellence competition in 2018. At an altitude of 1,000 to 1,100 meters, various high-quality Arabica plants such as yellow and red Catuai as well as Topazio and Geisha are cultivated on the farm under excellent climatic conditions and rich vegetation. In addition to strict quality principles, producer Ricardo Tavares focuses on resource-saving coffee cultivation, which has earned the farm the title of the 3rd Most Sustainable Farm in Brazil.

This caffeine-free espresso is naturally decaffeinated without chemical additives using the Swiss Water process. Here, the decaffeination process is carried out exclusively by adding water. This method is particularly gentle on the coffee and enables complex flavor profiles in the cup. The taste of our decaf is reminiscent of honey and cocoa combined with a balanced acidity of ripe citrus fruits.

Social and environmental responsibility are an integral part of operations at Fazenda Primavera in Brazil. Various investments are intended to minimize the environmental impact of the farm in the long term. The water used in the processing of the coffee cherries, for example, is fed into the company's own hydroelectric power station and used to generate further energy before it is fed back into the soil. The separated flesh of the cherries is also recycled. It serves as a natural fertilizer for the coffee plants. A closed circuit from which everyone benefits.
Almonds, cocoa and plum

Altitude: 1000 - 1100 masl, Process: swiss water decaf
Santiago, Brazil Santiago is a farm coffee grown on the Fazenda Batalha, a coffee farm located in the Cerrado Mineiro region in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil, which is very renowned for coffee cultivation. The local coffee farms are organized into cooperatives under the control of the Cerrado Coffee Growers Federation. The farm is at an altitude of 1,000 meters and is run by Gildo Mantuan Neto. Coffees from Cerrado Mineiro are provided with a special seal to emphasize the high quality standards in the cultivation and harvest of the coffees within the region. QR codes are also provided on each coffee sack, which enable direct tracing back to the farm. An exemplary measure of transparency in the world's largest coffee-growing country, Brazil.

Santiago is a particularly full-bodied espresso from Brazil with a taste reminiscent of hazelnuts, milk chocolate, caramel and cocoa. Roasted as an espresso, Santiago unfolds a lot of sweetness and a very distinctive body without unpleasant bitter substances or roasted aromas. Subtle notes of sweet berries round off this well-balanced espresso wonderfully. A really good 100% Arabica coffee from Cerrado Mineiro, probably the most renowned growing region in Brazil.

For the fourth year in a row, we have chosen a coffee from the Cerrado Mineiro region to go with our Brazil Espresso line. The Arabica coffees produced there are subject to strict quality principles, compliance with which is under the control of the Cerrado Coffee Growers Federation. The coffees produced in Cerrado Mineiro are certified. The guaranteed seal of origin and quality Cerrado Mineiro Region - DO has the purpose of marking the origin of the coffee and emphasizes the exceptionally good characteristics of the terroir in the region.
Caramel, milk chocolate and cocoa

Altitude: 1000 masl, Process: natural
PLus 87, Selected Mix

Based in Amsterdam, DAK was founded fairly recently in 2019 by Louis-Philippe Boucher. Originally from Montreal, Canada, his passion for coffee began during his young professional years. After working many years in the Finance and Venture Capital industry, Louis-Philippe decided to make the big move and leave everything behind to follow this passion, learning a lot along the way. Much like with wine and beer, he wants people to discover the breadth and understand the complexity of flavors that coffee can offer.

Today, DAK have become an instant hit in the speciality coffee world. On a journey to discover and help their customers appreciate the many ways coffee can be brewed, served and enjoyed, Louis-Philippe truly believes that every coffee beverage is unique in its own way and deserves a dedicated roast that is able to celebrates this characteristic.

DAK Coffees  | UK

Coffee Story Notes & Essentials Packages
Cassis, Kenya The first Kenyan of the year and this beautiful AA Kamwangi does not disappoint! Expect a sparkling acidity with tasting notes of black currant, kaffir lime and raspberry.

Kamwangi sits under the greater New Ngariama Cooperative Society, which includes other great performing factories like Kainamui. Their factories are always on our priority list. We have consistently bought these coffees the last six years and when you find the right outturns, they have amazing cup profiles. There are about 1800 farmers in total who can deliver to the factory, but not all of them are active. The New Ngariama Cooperative is known for giving back a big portion of the premiums to the producers, and they also provide financial support for school fees and farming needs. Each lot consists of coffees from hundreds of smallholders from the area surrounding the washing station (factory). The team at the factory sort the cherries before they go into production. The coffees are traditionally processed with dry fermentation, before being washed and graded in channels, and dried on raised beds. The farmers mainly grow SL28 and SL34, but as with almost all Kenyan cooperative coffees, there can be a mix of everything. Other common cultivars are K7, Ruiru 11 and now also Batian.
Blackcurrant, Kaffir lime and raspberry

Altitude: 1800 masl, Process: washed
Plus 87, Rest of World
Darling, Ethiopia Coming soon Black tea, bergamot, strawberry and floral

Process: washed
Selected Mix, Plus 87
Cotton Candy, Honduras A unique Honduran coffee from producers Moises and Marysabel Caballero with a heavy and silky mouthfeel! Complex with tasting notes of creamy strawberry, pear cider and apple - everything that reminds us of fun flavours like cotton candy or a fruit punch.

Moises began producing Naturals 3 or so years ago, initially only starting with 30 bags. Drying Natural coffees is very difficult in Marcala because of the humid climate and the rain experienced during the drying period. Moises has worked hard over the years to perfect the process, and in doing so has also showed Fabio, his father-in-law, the same techniques. Where they are processing the coffees as Naturals, they are picking ripe cherry and drying on covered raised beds. Initially the layer of cherry must be thin and as the coffee dries you can increase the thickness of the drying cherry. Cherry can take 20-40 days to dry depending on the temperatures. La Pedro is a farm at 1620 masl which Marysabel and Moises purchased in 1995.
Fruit punch, bubblegum, Nutella

Altitude: 1600 masl, Process: natural
Selected Mix, Single / Light
Apple Crunch, Bolivia Coming soon Apple, figs, raisins and walnut

Process: washed
Selected Mix, Blend / Darker, Rest of World
Barbara, Kenya A juicy and sweet AB Kenyan espresso with tasting notes of field strawberry, rhubarb and cherry lemonade.

Ndunduri was built in the early 70s and it is located at the steps of Mount Kenya. After picking, ripe cherry is brought to the factory before it undergoes processing to remove the skin and pulp – known as the wet processing method. The factory is using a disc pulper with three sets of discs to remove the skin and fruit from the inner parchment layer that is protecting the green coffee bean. After pulping, the coffee is fermented overnight to break down the sugars, before it is cleaned, soaked and spread out on the raised drying tables. Drying time will depend on the climate, temperature, and volume of coffee. But it generally takes from 7 to 15 days in total.
Rhubarb, field strawberry and white flowers

Altitude: 1600 masl, Process: washed
Plus 87, Rest of Worl
Pamplemousse, Ethiopia A natural Ethiopian from Guji bursting with flavours of grapefruit, kumquat and strawberries.

Sookoo’s washing stations are located in the Guji zone of the Oromia region, Ethiopia. The coffee from this area is sometimes mistakenly called Sidamo Guji, while instead it should be called Guji, or West-Guji on its own. This relatively young but already famous coffee area is recognized for its unique and distinctive cup profiles. In this beautiful landscape of forest jungle at an elevation of 2,100-2,350 meters above sea level, you can hear the workers singing cultural Guji songs while moving coffee around.
Grapefruit, kumquat and strawberry

Altitude: 2100 masl, Process: natural
Selected Mix

A small coffee roastery and collection of cafés based in Nottingham, Cartwheel are committed to traceable sourcing and sustainable roasting. With a simple approach to coffee, Cartwheel focus on buying traceable higher quality coffee from individual farmers and washing stations, influenced by flavour more than price. From farm to cup, Cartwheel seek to preserve the unique flavours and characteristics of individual regions instead of the homogenised, dark-roasted coffee flavour found in most high street brands.

Now known for their creative packaging, suchlike matches the colourful flavours of the coffees that can be found inside.

Cartwheel Coffees  |  UK

Coffee Story Notes & Essentials Packages
Raimutin, Timor Leste Sitting at 1400masl in the village of Atsabe is the Raimutin wet mill. Custom built in 2018, the wet mill serves as a processing centre for all the producers that Raw Material work with within the Ermera municipality. The mill uses gravity to move coffee through each processing stage.

Cherry is first floated to separate high-quality coffee from less mature, lower quality coffee. This is followed by sorting by hand to remove any damaged or unripe fruit. The cherry is then transported to raised beds, being dried for three weeks. The cherry is regularly turned to ensure even airflow and sun contact.

This lot was sourced through Raw Material. In Timor Leste, Raw Material built the Raimutin wet mill in 2018. Alongside processing coffee, the mill also serves as a central meeting point and a training centre for local producers.
Cherry liquer, apple and dark chocolate

Altitude: 1400 masl, Process: natural
Plus 87, Single / Light
Gildardo Lopez, Colombia (Washed) Finca Calamar is situated in the municipality of Paicol, western Huila, close to the border with Cauca. The farm is owned by Gildardo Lopez Hoyos, who runs it alongside his wife and four children. His sons also produce coffee on the farm. This lot consists of the Pink Bourbon variety, a rare hybrid of red and yellow Bourbon.

Following harvest and sorting, Gildardo ferments the cherry for 30 hours prior to de-pulping. Once de-pulped, another 48 hour fermentation takes place. The parchment is then fully washed and dried for 20-25 days on raised beds. The slow drying time is due to the cooler temperatures at the incredibly high altitudes the farm sits at; Finca Calamar sits at 1950-2000masl.

This lot was sourced by Osito Coffee. Director of Osito, Jose Losada, is a working producer in Huila, Colombia. This is our second year of buying coffee from Gildardo Lopez Hoyos.
Stone fruit, blood orange and brown sugar

Altitude: 1950 - 2000 masl, Process: washed, natural
Plus 87, Single / Light
Legoman Decaf, Colombia Year after year we have always gone to the same process for decaf. Why? You can barely tell it’s decaffeinated! This decaf is from a single producer, Juan Carlos Lopez; something we've not seen before for a decaf lot. Juan runs his farm Montes Tatama at the incredibly high altitude of 2000masl in the Risaralda area of western Colombia.

The process works by soaking green coffee in a solution of E.A., which bonds to the salts of chlorogenic acid in the coffee and allows for the removal of caffeine. The coffee is removed from the solvent and steamed at low pressure to remove the E.A. compounds, and the finished product retains its flavor integrity but contains almost no caffeine at all.

Sourced through Osito Coffee, who were introduced to Juan and were immediately impressed with his uniformity across larger lots. This lot was decaffeinated locally to Juan's farm.
Dried fruit, citrus and Maltesers

Altitude: 2000 masl, Process: EA decaf
Maribel Herrera, Peru SMaribel Herrera Torres is a coffee producer in Huabal district of north-western Peru. Maribel owns 2 hectares of land at around 1700masl, on which she grows and farms Caturra and Catuai varieties. Previously having only produced washed coffees, Maribel switched to producing naturals after seeing that it could greatly improve the quality of her coffee.

Cherries are harvested from the farm by Maribel and her family. The cherries are thoroughly washed and sorted by hand, before being placed to dry on lined patios for roughly 25 days, weather dependent.

Sourced in conjunction with Falcon Specialty and their Peru Project in Cajamarca. The project started in 2018 with 35 farmers, aiming to improve post-harvest processing. By the 2021 harvest, Falcon had worked with 420 farmers across 13 districts; paying, on average, double the commercial market price.
Tropical fruit, Turkish Delight and floral

Altitude: 1700 masl, Process: natural
Single / Light
Denin De Leon, Guatemala Finca El Bordo is a small three hectare farm situated in the village of El Coyegual, near the town of San Antonio Huista, Huehuetenango. El Bordo is owned by Denin de Leon, a second-generation coffee producer. The farm was initially inherited by Denin's father, who started producing coffee on the land. Denin took over when the time came, continuing his father's work.

At harvest, cherry is collected in three rounds of selective picking. Cherries are pulped immediately, before undergoing a 48hr fermentation. The beans are then washed with clean water, sourced from the local village, and sundried on patios.

Sourced by Primavera, who works with over 200 local producers in Guatemala, as well as having their own farm. They mill, bag and export all their coffees through their sister company. This is our second year buying coffee from Denin de Leon through Primavera.
Forest fruits, apple and brown sugar

Altitude: 1300 masl, Process: washed
Plus 87, Single / Light
Misspent Youth, Brazil / Ethiopia TMisspent Youth currently consists of two naturals, a Brazilian Catuai from Humberto Zati and an Ethiopian Gesha from producer Israel Degfa. Humberto Zati is a small producer in the Cerrado region of Brazil. Humberto runs his two farms in the region alongside his wife and children. The Gelena farm is Israel Degfa’s private farm, located in the infamous Yirgacheffe region, sitting between 1500 and 1700masl.

Both components of this blend are naturally processed coffees. Whole cherries are dried either on raised beds or patios in thin layers. Constant turning of the cherries is required to ensure even drying and to prevent the occurrence of defects.

Both lots were sourced in conjuction with Kamba Coffee. The Brazilian lot from Humbeto Zati was sourced this through their custom sourcing scheme. Israel is a part owner of Kamba; we visited him and some of his farms in 2020.
Forest fruits, hazelnut and milk chocolate

Altitude: 1500 - 1700 masl, Process: natural
Blend / Darker

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GUSTATORY (adjective): curating excellence in taste.

GUSTATORY Curation TeamSeptember 01, 2022